Acrylic Mirror – Stylish Serving Idea

Category: Mirrors

It’s National Chocolate Week and we’re taking part here at The Plastic People:).  We’ve managed to tuck into wrapped chocolate, melted chocolate and baked chocolate.

It has to be said, we all do love our chocolate, nearly as much as our plastic.  In an effort to combine the two we came up with this stylish idea which we thought made a rather impressive way to serve up and present tasty treats. (Remember, we are plastic people not designers!)  So, drum roll, here it is… our acrylic mirror serving suggestion  for chocolate rocky road, made by one of our team.

Acrylic mirror serving suggestion….rocky road!

Let us know what you think !  Like it ? Love it ? Think mirror is best left for our own reflections ?

If you’re a fan, the look is easy to put together.  You only need a piece of acrylic mirror, have it cut to the size you’d like for your display.  We used an off cut from our plastic stock but you could beef up the style factor and have acrylic mirror cut to the shape and proportions of your table!

Our friendly team are happy to help. Reach them via email or phone 0113 249 2222.  You can have acrylic mirror cut to size and shape on The plastic People site too – check it out here.



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Get The Art Gallery Look With Floating Picture Frames

Category: picture framing

If you’re a fan of contemporary, clean design, then this is the type of framing you’ll love in your home.

Floating acrylic picture frames give any space that sleek, art gallery feel, and as we’re about to show you, the look is surprisingly easy and inexpensive to achieve.

Two clear acrylic sheets cut to the size of your choice is all you need along with a drill and your chosen artwork or photograph. You can easily buy acrylic cut to size on the internet and we can always help you with that at The Plastic People.

Expert tip: Be sure your chosen acrylic comes with a protective film on it to keep your acrylic perfect until you are ready to hang it on your wall.

How to create your floating frame: 

Firstly, mark on your acrylic where your screws will go.  Do this by measuring  15mm to 25mm in from each corner of your acrylic and marking the acrylic with a pen.

Now, secure your two sheets of acrylic together by clamping either side of the corner. Position the clamped corner over the edge of your work surface and drill a hole through both sheets of acrylic. Drill where you have marked your screw hole to be.

Repeat until you have drilled screw holes in all corners.

If you’re unsure about drilling holes into your acrylic, buy your cut to size acrylic with the holes already drilled in for you.  You can do this here.

Expert tip:  It’s best to drill a little bit into the acrylic to get the hole started, but then switch the drill into reverse and press down to complete the hole.  Think of it as melting your way through the acrylic sheet.  Keep switching to bigger and bigger drill bits until you have the right hole size drilled for your fixings.  Keep the film on your acrylic until you’re ready to hang!

Adding artwork to your floating frame:

Stick a small piece of double-sided tape to the back of your artwork or photo and place it in the middle of your sheet of acrylic.  Place your other sheet of acrylic over your artwork or photo to ‘sandwich’ it in place.

Expert tip: Use conservation, acid-free tape so the tape won’t damage the photo over time.

Hanging your floating frame:

Check your floating frame looks good by holding it up to your chosen wall spot.   When you’re ready, hold one of your fixings flush with the wall and carefully drill the screw into the wall using a drill with a hex bit.

Wall fixings like these will make your acrylic frame stand away from the wall

Hold your fixing on the opposite corner up against the wall. Place a level on top of the frame to ensure it’s straight.  Once the frame is level, drill the second screw into the wall.

Finish off  by drilling the bottom screws into the wall.

Expert tip: Use stand-off wall fixings like the ones shown here for a polished look.

If you’d rather buy acrylic floating frames ready cut, drilled and with stand off fixings, The Plastic People do have a range of popular sizes as well as producing bespoke sizes that you need.  Check them all out here.

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Secondary Glazing For Listed Buildings

Category: Glazing

Listed and historic homes and buildings are typically draughty,  thermally inefficient and with poor acoustic performance.  English Heritage and conservation bodies recognise that such homes and buildings need to adapt to be attractive for homeowners and modern use.  These issues can all be helped with the careful addition of secondary glazing. 

secondary glazing – photo courtesy of customer (The Plastic People)

Secondary glazing involves adding another slim-line window to your existing windows. It is a cost effective and efficient method of insulating & sound proofing your windows – and for listed buildings, the only way to insulate and sound-proof your windows.  In most cases conservation bodies accept secondary glazing as a reversible adaptation.  Ie) it can be removed, if required, at a later date with almost no impact on the original design or fabric of the building apart from repair of fixing holes and some redecoration.

There are many variations of secondary glazing  - hinged, sliding, fixed and lift out.  They will all save energy, reduce heating bills, improve the energy rating and make your home more comfortable.

The Plastic People provides one of the least intrusive secondary glazing options for listed buildings –  lift out secondary glazing which fixes onto existing window frames with magnetic fixings.  You can see it here.

To install secondary glazing yourself, follow these 5 steps

  1. Measure up inside the window panes that you want to secondary glaze.
  2. Go to and order Magnetglaze Quickfit with your window sizes. You’ll get everything you need for your windows –  a correctly sized acrylic glazing pane and black and white magnetic strips which you use to connect the glazing pane to your window.
  3. Cut the white magnetic strip so it fits around the edges of your window frame then stick it to the window frame.
  4. Cut the black magnetic strip so it can be stuck to around the edges of the acrylic pane.
  5. Pick up your new acrylic glazing pane and connect it onto your window the magnetic strips will hold it in place.

If you would like further help or advice, email the friendly team at The Plastic People who will be happy to help.

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The Best Plastic For Catteries and Kennels

Category: polyproylene

Pet owners, breeders and commercial catteries/kennels looking for low cost, easy to maintain and high quality materials to use for pet housing should consider polyproplyleneit’s ideal and practical for this purpose say the friendly team at The Plastic People.

While timber animal housing will rot over time, plastic will not.  But not just any plastic – check out polypropylene.

Polypropylene makes an excellent choice for catteries and kennels because it is:

  1. Durable against clawing, scratching and chewing
  2. Hygienic and easy to clean – chemical cleaners can be used on it without any detriment
  3. Long lasting and maintenance free
  4. FDA approved – meaning it will not harbour bacteria
  5.  UV resistant, and also has anti-oxidants to make it strong enough to brave the elements without becoming damaged or rusting.

Other plastics such as Polyethylene  and PVC are used to manufacture catteries and kennels.  Their benefits are not considered as great as polypropylene by The Plastic People.  Polyethylene offers no advantage over polypropylene; in fact it is a slightly softer and more expensive choice.  PVC is a more fragile choice in colder conditions, being prone to breaking.

See details about polypropylene here  or ask the friendly team at The Plastic People.

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The Differences Between Acrylic and Polycarbonate

Category: clear acrylic, Polycarbonate

Acrylic and polycarbonate are two of the most popular plastics The Plastic People are asked questions about –  specifically what are the differences between acrylic and polycarbonate.  Here are some of the key areas to compare when choosing between acrylic and polycarbonate for your project.  We hope it helps – if you need more advice drop the friendly team at The Plastic People an email.

Strength – which is strongest

Polycarbonate is stronger than acrylic. That aside, both are very strong.

If you are comparing to glass, Acrylic and Polycarbonate are both half the weight of glass and yet both of these plastics are much stronger than glass.  Acrylic has 17 times the impact resistance of glass. Polycarbonate has 250 times the impact resistance of glass.

police riot shield – safe with polycarbonate

Acrylic is very rigid whereas polycarbonate can be bought in flexible grades. Acrylic cracks more easily than polycarbonate under stress.

Light – which has better clarity

Acrylic lets in more light with a light transmittance of 92% compared to  Polycarbonate which has a light transmittance of 88 percent.  That aside, both are used successfully for glazing – for example, polycarbonate is often used in bus shelter glazing as it is so strong and both acrylic and polycarbonate are used for secondary glazing.

secondary glazing – use either acrylic or polycarbonate

Acrylic can be polished to restore its clarity, while polycarbonate cannot.

Working with Acrylic & Polycarbonate

Acrylic can be used at temperatures ranging from -30 degrees Fahrenheit to 190 degrees Fahrenheit. It may expand and contract with changes in temperature although it won’t permanently shrink over time.

Polycarbonate can handle temperatures up to 240 degrees Fahrenheit. Polycarbonate is also highly resistant to chemicals such as gasoline and acids.

Which is easier to cut

Both acrylic and polycarbonate can be cut with conventional tools such as saws or routers, though acrylic cuts easier than polycarbonate. Polycarbonate fights the initial push of a saw or router at the start of a cut.

Which is easier to drill

Acrylic will crack if it is drilled near an edge or with a drill bit not designed for plastic. Polycarbonate typically does not crack when being drilled even if drilled close to the edge with a standard drill bit.

Which polishes up better

The edges of acrylic can be polished smooth and to a high shine. Polycarbonate cannot be polished.

polished acrylic table

Which is easier to bend 

Heat bending works better with acrylic than polycarbonate. Polycarbonate can be cold formed or bent without heating.

Which is easier to glue

Gluing with cements designed for acrylic and polycarbonate, acrylic gives a cleaner glue joint than polycarbonate.

Which is easier to keep clean

Both acrylic and polycarbonate are easy to clean. The best choice for cleaning is a micro fibre or 100% cotton cloths (no other types!).

Acrylic should only be cleaned with warm soap water or an acrylic cleaner.  Chemicals should never be used on acrylic.

Polycarbonate has a higher chemical resistance than acrylic; it can be cleaned by harsher cleaners containing chemicals such as ammonia.

Neither plastic should be cleaned with solvents.

Which is more durable

Both acrylic and polycarbonate are weather resistant and expand and contract with temperature changes without long-term or permanent shrinkage.

Both acrylic and polycarbonate can scratch, so avoid touching them with anything made from abrasive binding agents.

Acrylic is more likely to chip than polycarbonate because it is less impact-resistant. It does not scratch as easily, however, and will not yellow over time.

Polycarbonate has low flammability, while acrylic will burn slowly and is not recommended in areas where flames may be present.

Which is cheaper

Acrylic is cheaper to than Polycarbonate.

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